Recharge your natural beauty selection.
“Fresh.” “Clean.” “All natural.” These are the most common—and powerful—descriptors used in commercial advertising for skin and related beauty products.
Like makeup that’s been smeared, the line between “healthy and natural” skin and beauty products versus “conventional” becomes more indistinct, as mass market and department store products have long ago dove straight into the “natural ingredients” pool.
However, this is absolutely not a bad thing; quite the contrary, as brand manufacturers devoted to the naturals niche have always remained one giant step ahead, paving the way for the “me too” mass companies to follow. These early adopters remain devoted to the leading retail niche that is the natural health retailer environment.
And, let’s face it, your devoted customers are also early adopters, too. As Dorie Greenblatt, director of sales and marketing for manufacturer New York-based Home Health Products explained, “Customers already shopping for natural and clean ingredient ‘good for you’ products in foods and supplements will have the same level of priority concerns when shopping in personal care. The forces driving a personal care purchase are the same regardless of where a customer is shopping in your store: are these products chemical free, allergen free, vegan-friendly, natural and clean, non-GMO (genetically modified organism) and gluten free? Do they contain DEAs or phthalates, artificial colors or fragrances?”
Ike Blackmon, executive director for Utah-based manufacturer Creative Bioscience, emphasized that, “Consumers are much more conscientious about what they are buying and are seeking specific attributes, such as non-GMO, gluten free, alcohol free, and natural versus synthetic ingredients.”
Another expert from the manufacturing side of the industry, Elizabeth Poon, director of marketing, Country Life Vitamins in New York, likewise believes the growing consumer base demanding cleaner yet effective cleansers and beauty products are leading the way for more market entries in this sector. “Consumers shopping in the natural channel are very educated, and often early adopters and influencers within their social circles. They are looking specifically for brands that align with their approach to natural health and beauty, and, as a very vocal group, have helped us bring natural beauty regimens to the forefront,” she observed.
Poon added that Country Life has been pleased to see an increasing number of natural HBA products that are “tested by third parties and clinically verified to produce results, which has had a very positive impact on the natural beauty category.”
Greenblatt said pointedly that products that fulfill these desires for natural product retailers “represent a huge opportunity beyond natural food and beyond supplements. Where’s the growth? It’s in personal care. It’s all driven by a customer’s desire for clean, plant-based ingredients that are vegan friendly, non-GMO and gluten free.”
Regina Muhammad, cofounder of product maker Buff Her House of Exfoliation in Georgia observed that increasingly, “people are becoming more involved in the process of what they are eating and putting on their skin. Moms are reading labels on the food they feed their families, and beauty junkies are reading to see what’s in their cleansing products. In these past five years even the big beauty brands now have natural lines. Everyone is becoming more aware of ways to stay healthy from the inside out.”
At this point in time, the mass and department store brands are not that sophisticated yet; very few brands or products are sold in these arenas that can claim to fulfill all these strict needs. But yet in both arenas, there are two common values that successful products must exhibit, according to Dr. Liki von Oppen-Bezalel, vice president of business development and marketing for skin care manufacturer IBR Ltd. She explained, “Natural beauty/skin care products have two sides—the natural characteristic of the products and the natural characteristics of the visible effects on the way the consumer looks. Both seem to be evolved in the last five years toward younger, healthier flawless appearances of the consumer and natural origin (free of and naturally sourced) products.”
Within this category, beauty/skin-health supplements are increasing in use by women who are much more educated now that glowing skin health is a dual process—external and internal. Rob Maru, nutrition chief innovation officer for product manufacturer Reserveage, observed that “increased awareness and more high-quality human clinical trials surrounding ingestible dietary supplement ingredients have influenced many shoppers to view ‘beauty from within’ as a more sound and effective path to maintaining a more youthful appearance. Providing the building blocks and nourishing from within is now seen as a more effective way to support more beautiful hair, skin and nails.”
Category Challenges
As retailers peruse the trade shows and read about new products, they can see a glorious trove of new HBA products, or reformulated/updated versions. This category is quite robust with highly effective and even luxurious beauty/skin cleansing, toning and treatments.
There are some issues to be aware of when considering selection of newer products for in-store trial. BioScience’s Blackmon advised that in the sub-sector of ingestible beauty/skin supplements, to be wary of companies that illegally mislabel or don’t test for contamination, and equally important may falsely advertise or hype claims that are not supported. Any of these acts, “could cause many health problems with consumers due to the risk of allergies and other side effects.”
Muhammad agreed, “I think in the wake of some natural beauty product companies being sued over misleading the public with their labeling, HBC retailers should always set a high standard for the products that are on their shelves.”
From an ingredient supplier standpoint, Dr. Liki von Oppen-Bezalel also pointed to safety and stability (microbial mostly) of the products as key issues in natural beauty products. These are being met with development of safe and stable natural products free of preservatives that are maintained in proper storing conditions and containers. Take care to scrutinize ingredients, said Maru, who observed that there are some products on the market that contain generic key ingredients that may not be supported by human clinical research. “As a result, consumers who choose these products sometimes solely based on price point are often ultimately disappointed because they do not deliver results,” he stated.
Beyond delivering expected or desired results is the real issue of sensitivity, and annoying rashes that sensitivities incur. When a sensitivity emerges, a lengthy progression of trial and error to identify exactly what is causing the allergic reaction often ensues.
“In recent years, the prevalence of sensitive skin has been increasing, and now potentially affects the majority of women,” Greenblatt explained. She cited a report from the Herb Research Foundation, which found that the skin absorbs up to 60 percent of the chemicals in products that it comes in contact with directly into the bloodstream. Just over a decade ago, she elaborated, studies found that one in two women had sensitive skin, but more recent research shows that it now potentially affects three in four. For example, in 2001 a study found that among 3,300 women, 51.4 percent reported having sensitive skin, and 38.2 percent of 500 men reported the condition. However, in 2009, a study of 1,039 people found that 77.3 percent complained of sensitive facial skin and 60.7 percent had sensitive body skin.
“Many consumers remain challenged with finding effective sensitive skincare products that help them solve their sensitive skincare problems—sensations of dryness, tightness, burning, itching, redness—to name a few,” Greenblatt explained. “Individuals can react to one or more ingredients in a product, including active ingredients, preservatives, dyes or fragrances. Consequently, unless testing is done on the exact formulation that a consumer buys off the shelf, there is no way of knowing whether that product will be safe for a sensitive individual. Therefore, products that are safe and effective for sensitive skin are in a unique position to attract and build loyalty with this growing population of consumers … who represent the primary customer that shops in natural health food stores.”
Fulfilling the need to use skincare lines without fear of sensitivity has been a challenge in the sense that many products that tout terms such as “sensitive skin” may not adequately live up to the promise, as sensitivities and symptoms are so widely varied as experienced by individuals.
“Here is where everclen sensitive skincare products stand apart,” Greenblatt asserted. “The products (cleanser, toner, face cream, eye cream, hand cream, body lotion) have all been clinically tested and proven safe for sensitive skin via rigorous clinical and dermatological tests that meet the highest standards of the skincare care industry.” She noted that studies were done on women with sensitive skin, using the latest scientific testing methods and comparing each product to a placebo. Tests were carried out by scientists and under the direction of dermatologist and, for everclen eye cream, by scientists and ophthalmologists.
“Such rigorous clinical sensitivity testing is not often done on other products sold in the natural health food channel,” she observed. “Additionally, everclen products are not only proven to be safe for sensitive skin, but are also hypoallergenic and non-comedogenic.”
And there’s more to the ingredient story, because as mass and department store beauty brands more aggressively tout natural ingredients, there are still unnatural compounds lurking in the sudsy foam. For example, Blackmon observed that there are many products containing parabens and various synthetic preservatives. Creative Bioscience’s Anti-aging Formula and Beauty Formula, he pointed out, contain all-natural vitamins and herbs, as well as manufactured ingredients that are backed by clinical studies and shown to be safe and effective. In Reserveage’s case, “Not all collagen is created equal,” said Maru. “Some collagen powders have a foul odor, bad taste and don’t mix well in room temperature liquids, and this can be due to a number of reasons, which may include the existence of impurities. A high quality hydrolyzed collagen powder performs well and is also pleasant to drink, has no odor or foul taste and mixes readily in any beverage.”
According to Greenblatt, everclen products were specially formulated without any irritating ingredients. They are free of soap, fragrance, parabens, gluten, phthalates, petroleum, colors, DEAs, SLS, and GMOs. Some plant-based cleansers can be irritating and harsh on skin, so everclen products contain cocomidopropyl betaine (coconut derived), a gentle “foaming” ingredient that is a safe alternative to harsh sulfates like sodium lauryl sulfate. Further, Greenblatt explained, decyl glucoside (also coconut derived) is a very mild surfactant, naturally non-ionic and sustainable. It is a gentle natural cleanser that is a combination of plant based fatty alcohols and glucose.
Another plus for this line is that it is vegan-friendly, and never tested on animals. The no-animal-testing is also a hallmark of many other lines and these also provide natural stores with a significant competitive edge over mass and department channels.
When it comes to exfoliants, said Muhammad, “there are some that are still using plastic beads in their exfoliants. These beads are now being banned in some states because they are causing pollution in our lakes and rivers.”
Selections
A brand new ingestible beauty ingredient that helps even out skin tone and lightens naturally is PhtyoflORAL, from IBR, Ltd. Dr. von Oppen-Bezalel explained that PhytoflORAL is a natural dietary supplement for beauty from within which combines phytoene and phytofluene, two colorless carotenoids. She said new clinical data shows that PhytoflORAL has an outstanding photo-protection capacity that is built into the skin from within.
“PhytoflORAL can significantly increase minimal erythemal dose (MED) after 84 days of consumption, meaning that the skin’s ability to resist sun damage is increased,” she explained. “Both phytoene and phytofluene are also able to lighten and even the skin tone by inhibition of melanin synthesis, UVA and UVB protection, anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant capabilities as shown in a clinical study. The data so far provide evidence that dietary intake of PhytoflORAL will result in accumulation of the phytoene and phytofluene in skin benefits including protection against oxidative and photo damage, and skin lightening and even skin complexion.”
Creative Bioscience’s Anti-Aging Formula, said Blackmon, was recently recognized as a “Best of Supplements” award winner by Better Nutrition for 2015. “What is unique about this product is our inclusion of Ceramide PCD, which are ceramides derived from rice,” he explained, adding that ceramides derived from rice are shown to be more effective than those derived from wheat or konnyaku. Ceramides are absorbed into the intestines where they circulate toward the outer layers of the skin to help improve skin’s moisture retention, he added.
Country Life recently introduced Maxi-Skin Collagen + C&A to its natural beauty line. “With recent third party testing verifying its ingredients and its potential for results, it was a natural extension of our equally effective Maxi-Hair products,” Poon related. Available in both tablet and powder form, Maxi-Skin Collagen C+A provides versatility for the consumer, Pooned added, including easy-to-swallow pills with a beverage of choice, or a tasteless powder that mixes easily in water or a healthy smoothie.
Country Life has also introduced non-GMO Biotin, as significant numbers of consumers properly equate GMOs with potential health complications. “Even before the Non-GMO project came to the forefront, we only worked with suppliers that could verify the source of their ingredients,” Poon explained.
“Our Biotin achieved non-GMO status, without us having to reformulate the product. It has been non-GMO and we are thrilled that our ‘undercover’ work is being validated. Our Biotin is no different.”
New from Reserveage is an alternative to collagen supplements derived from animal sources; the Nutrition Plant-based Support Collagen Builder features nutritional support that the body can use in producing its own collagen, according to Maru. These include co-nutrients that work with a blend of three amino acids to help support collagen production and which are sourced from specific, plant-derived ingredients including a naturally sourced Vitamin C from Organic Amla gooseberry extract and silica from bamboo. In addition it provides white tea polyphenols that have antioxidant activity. And to help seal moisture for softer skin, Reserveage formulators included patented ceramosides phytoceramides from vegan sources.
“For sensitive skin, each everclen formula, the newest research-based line from Home Health, combines plant-based ingredients that synergistically deliver greater benefits,” said Greenblatt. These include: aloe barbadensis leaf (aloe vera), green tea extract, coconut-derived cleansers, conditioning oils such as jojoba seed, grapeseed, safflower, shea butter, sodium hyaluronate (hyaluronic acid) and vitamin E. everclen is manufactured in small batches to assure freshness and purity in every product. “Among brands developed exclusive[ly] for natural product retailers and their customers, it is distinguished by a documented claim that few others can match: everclen is clinically tested and proven safe for sensitive skin,” she asserted.
Buff Her House of Exfoliation specializes in natural exfoliants. This year the company introduced its new Crumbles line of foaming food facial scrubs; a cleanser and exfoliant in one. “The ladies are loving them!” Muhammad emphasized. The powders are added to customer’s favorite facial cleanser or water. Crumbles is available in two flavors—Strawberry Lemon and Vanilla Almond. “Because they smell so good … we have to tell our customers you can’t eat them,” she laughed. VR
For More Information:
Creative Bioscience, (877) 744-1224
Buff Her House of Exfoliation, (404) 969-5189
Country Life Vitamins, (651) 789-1275
Home Health/everclen, (631) 200-6391
IBR, +49 30 80589698
Reserveage, www.reserveage.com
