Men and women, young and old interested in looking (and feeling) their best are learning about the beautiful benefits of nutricosmetics.

Beauty maintenance has become an inside job, with multitasking vitamins an essential part of anti-aging efforts. But one can’t count out the nutrient-dense topical products also working right alongside.

“While demand for nutricosmetics has been very high in Japan and Europe for years, we’re now seeing increasing consumer demand in the U.S.,” said Jessica Mulligan, vice president of sales and marketing with California-based NeoCell. “Global Industry Analysts estimates that nutricosmetics will become a $4 billion industry by 2017, while Freedonia Group predicts an $8.5 billion market by 2015. Consumers are learning that health and beauty go hand-in-hand, and nutricosmetics play an important role in supplying nutrients that help people improve their overall health and, at the same time, garner benefits that can help provide a more beautiful appearance.”

Jack Grogan, CN, chief science officer with Michigan-based Uckele Health & Nutrition, noted that the market is small now, but steadily increasing. “People are starting to realize that shortcuts like plastic surgery and chemical injections can have problematic outcomes in terms of health and side effects,” he said. “More men and women understand that premature aging of the skin is not inevitable and that there is a way to support optimal skin health. A combination of nutritional ingredients can support and restore the structure and function of the skin from the inside out.”

According to manufacturers, the consumer market of beauty-fromwithin products is not only expanding, but also changing. “The obvious answer is that the Baby Boomer population is very interested in skin support formulas; however, it’s important to realize that they are not exclusively being purchased by that demographic,” said Grogan.“We’re seeing younger generations actually taking a proactive stance in skin support, not waiting until there are tell-tale signs of aging.”

Mulligan added, “I believe the demographic that most companies are targeting for nutricosmetics are 40 and over, as this has traditionally been the group that is most looking for relief from skin aging.We are seeing our demographics shift though, as more consumers in their 20s and 30s adopt anti-aging skincare routines before the visible signs of aging manifest.”

One miscalculation retailers make is assuming that women are more interested in a youthful appearance than men.While that may be generally true, men are showing an escalating interest in skin support formulas and are more likely to use them over a topical skincare product, added Grogan.

Alexis Harwood, senior brand manager with Florida-based Reserveage Organics, agreed that it is both men and women seeking natural alternatives for healthy hair, nails and skin without the use of potentially dangerous procedures or chemical alternatives who are buying these products. “Consumers are becoming more attentive to what they put in their bodies. A heightened interest surrounding eco-living, sustainability and consuming natural and organic foods is helping to drive interest in the beauty category,” she pointed out.

Where to Sell

Competition for the traditional momand- pop natural product retailer will be fierce for this category. According to Organic Monitor, the North American market for natural personal care products is growing because of increasing Distribution and brands expanding into new channels as shelf space in natural food stores reach saturation.

“Yes, we have found this to be true,” said Mulligan. “Expanding to different markets has been very beneficial to the NeoCell product development team, as we are studying demographics outside of the natural customer. Some channels that we weren’t focused on a couple years ago are today becoming an increasingly large part of our base for future development, including grocery channels, beauty destinations and department stores.”

“We are also finding this to be true,” agreed Eileen Sheets, managing director with New York-based Bioforce USA, “so new products must have a new, unique niche that can open up additional revenue streams into the stores rather than taking revenue away from existing products.”

Best for Beauty

Products that address hair, nail and skin health are popular in the beauty-fromwithin category, according to Reserveage Organics’ Harwood, and products and ingredients that support vital beauty proteins such as collagen, elastin and keratin are trending.

For Florida-based Organix-South, what’s leading the category to support healthy skin from the inside out is its award winning TheraVeda Immune Support, TheraVeda Liver Support, TheraNeem Naturals Neem leaf capsules and concentrated Neem leaf supercritical (SCO2) extract, according to Autumn Blum, organic cosmetic chemist, vice president and founder of the company.

“Neem is considered a first reach botanical for internal use as a dietary supplement and topically to support healthy skin, gums, scalp and more,” Blum explained. “The United Nations declared neem the tree of the 21st century for its diversity of benefits for people, pets, plants and the planet.Organix-South is considered the primary organic neem-based manufacture in the U.S. and abroad, and we have an ever-expanding line of therapeutic and organic neem-based personal care and dietary supplements products.”

Other ingredients that are gaining ground at Organix-South are ones utilizing concentrated organic SCO2 extracts in organic herbal dietary supplements found in TheraVeda, TheraNeem, as well as for topical care in TheraNeem Naturals and Naked Organix. “We are also huge fans of using the benefits of herbal adaptogens internally and externally,” Blum added. “Adaptogenic herbs are considered the category of herbs that are ideal to address 21st century challenges. Adaptogens help our body’s and skin adapt to physical, environmental and emotional challenges.”

What’s New

At Uckele, the company recently introduced a new oral supplement capsule, Internal Facelift, which contains a combination of ingredients to specifically support healthy skin function by supporting detoxification systems, reducing oxidative stress, and strengthening the skin proteins and connective tissue, as well as improving the skin’s hydration abilities.

Reserveage Organics now offers Ultra Collagen Booster with BioCell Collagen and Dermaval, both clinically studied ingredients, to support skin’s firmness and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. They are advanced formulations of the company’s best-selling and award-winning Collagen Booster with BioCell Collagen.

Though not new, NeoCell’s Collagen Type 1 & 3, Hyaluronic Acid and Antioxidants are leading the category Due to their proven effectiveness against skin aging, according to Mulligan. “We are developing some new products in this category, but I can’t let the cat out of the bag just yet!” However, the company did launch newlook labels and eco-friendly packaging at the Natural Products Expo West trade show in March.

Organix South recently added the TheraNeem Naturals Facial Oil Serums featuring a blend of decadent oils to feed the skin plus an exclusive adaptogenic blend of concentrated SCO2 extracts. The company launched three skin type specific Facial Oil Serums to protect and nourish: TheraNeem Naturals Facial Oil Serum— Soothing Therapé For Normal or Stressed Skin; TheraNeem Naturals Facial Oils Serum—Rejuvenating Therapé For Dry or Damaged skin; and TheraNeem Naturals Facial Oil Serum— Balancing Therapé For Oily or Blemish Prone skin.

Another new line introduced by Bioforce USA is DADO SENS, a dermacosmetic line made by Borlind. “These skincare products address the issues of severely dry skin, oily skin prone to blemishes, anti-aging care for very sensitive skin, and flushed, reddened skin,” according to Sheets. Retailer Bob Krissnanand, HBA and vitamin buyer at Park Naturals in Brooklyn, NY, carries the new line, and said it’s labeling is easily understandable and attractive to customers.
“Because there are three categories of condition-specific products, it’s an easy buy for consumers,” he explained. “I use a couple of their products also, including a toner I use after Shaving. [The line] has a 99 percent satisfaction rate with customers.”

News and Innovations

Functional foods and beverages, according to Mulligan, are other trending products for nutricosmetics.“We’re also finding success in cross-merchandising so consumers can take a twopronged approach. For example, we pair our Super Collagen + C tablets with NeoCell Collagen Radiance serum. This is a highly effective combination for skin health, because while the topical Collagen Radiance Serum will hydrate the epidermis, or outermost layer of skin, the Super Collagen + C works internally to build up the mechanical strength of the skin. The combination of the two delivers an anti-aging knockout approach.”

To hold consumer interest, companies are continually looking for new delivery systems for products, she added.“Although Americans don’t seem to have ‘pill fatigue’ just yet, we have noticed our item sales in Asia and Europe growing exponentially for nonpill delivery systems. I believe transdermal application of nutrients is going to innovate and transform the category.”

Retailer Assistance

In natural cosmetic departments, there are standard offerings manufacturers provide to help educate staff members and consumers alike, as well as providing newer technical applications.Reserveage offers information and educational materials and conducts trainings to help educate the retailers and their staff. The company will also offer POP counter display options that provide education and information for the consumer.

“It is important that retailers understand the quality and benefits of these products,” added Bioforce’s Sheets.“Providing products to store personnel for their own use is very helpful, along with education so that they understand the quality that sets the brand apart, and also how to recommend products to potential customers. Samples for customers to try are very important, of Course, and store demos are very helpful— they create an opportunity to reach new customers, and also to educate store personnel. Well thought out shelf talkers help a customer make their decision.”

For hair color, Bioforce provides a tollfree helpline manned by a master colorist with many years’ experience, Sheets said. “She can provide a color consultation, as well as tips on using the product.She can ‘hold the hand’ of a new customer and walk them through the process.”

Retailer Maria E. Gonzalez, vitamin and HBA buyer at Queens Health Emporium in Flushing, NY, said a lot of customers contact Marie Therese (Bioforce’s master colorist) and say she is very helpful. “It’s a good tool they have with her. She’s very knowledgeable; it’s very important to have her. She’s a lovely lady and explains the products well, and she is very friendly with her French accent!”

On a less personal, but still important, level, manufacturers are increasingly using QR codes and social media to convey product benefits. “We have recently provided in-store videos for several of our retailers, which can be a very effective way to illustrate product benefits,” said Mulligan. “Lastly, consumer seminars and brand ambassadors doing demos is vital to education.”

When asked what kind of support he prefers from manufacturers, retailer Krissnanand cited, “honesty, high-quality and ‘clean’ ingredients—you have to feel comfortable with the product. When a lot of customers come back and tell me the product works, that’s my gratification.”