The future of skincare products emphasizes natural, safer ingredients and formulations with scientifically proven results.

The ranks of educated and discriminating natural skincare consumers are throwing out their department store potions in favor of safe, natural and results-driven products. Highly trained and informed retailers help them select products that meet their sophisticated needs.

Regardless of your age or sex, skincare is probably an important part of your daily ritual. Fresh research and discoveries lead to new ingredients and new ways to care for the largest organ of your body. Trends come and go, but the basic idea in caring for your skin involves giving it nutritional ingredients, inside and out, to protect and enhance the look, feel and glow of every inch.

Several skincare ingredient and product manufacturers, as well as a few retailers, have provided a glimpse of what products are in demand, what trends are emerging, what research is developing, and what consumers are seeking. While natural ingredients and valid, scientific research are key concerns, these experts believe the market for skincare products is diverse and fast-changing.

Market for Natural Skin Care Products Is Growing

According to Darren Landis, vice president of Hyalogic in Missouri, the state of the market for skincare products is growing year over year with record sales and customers seeking more technical high-end based skincare products. He explained that health food stores are great places to promote these products because the employees are savvy people who can explain the technical nature of new ingredients to consumers.

James Liu, founder of SeabuckWonders in Illinois, said health is now a huge part of the mainstream consciousness, adding that consumers are making the connection between nutrition and skin health.

“This category is growing rapidly. The market for natural skincare in supplement form (nutricosmetics) in particular is experiencing a surge of activity,” he stated. “More than ever, skincare companies are embracing all that natural ingredients have to offer and are casting aside harsh chemicals in their products.”

According to Sébastien Bornet, vice president global sales and marketing at ingredient supplier Horphag Research in Switzerland, the Freedonia Group (an industry market research publisher) estimated the U.S. market for cosmeceuticals would reach $8.5 billion in 2015. He noted the report shows skincare comprised nearly two-thirds of the category while injectables, hair care and lip care made up the remainder.

Horphag Research is the exclusive worldwide supplier of Pycnogenol French maritime pine bark extract, and holds exclusive rights to market and sell the product to companies and help them develop product formulas.

“The U.S. beauty market has traditionally been driven by topical skincare products, such as lotions and creams,” Bornet said. “Recently however, American consumers are more aware and accepting of beauty from within. As a result, well-informed consumers are seeking premium ingredients backed by scientific evidence.”

In the opinion of Ryan Fisher, owner of White Egret Personal Care in Utah, the current era is a very exciting time for personal care skin products because the industry is growing across the board.

“We have noticed that as consumers have become more educated, they are more interested in clean products that nourish and strengthen skin in the long term, rather than products that cover up deficiencies or dryness just for the time period of the application,” he stated.

Fisher continued, “Companies who focus on the quick sell will most likely be disappointed in their returns as consumers are savvy about what they use on their skin. New ingredients in the market have bolstered opportunities for personal care products to continue expanding in the natural sector.”

Rob Maru, chief innovation officer for Reservage in Florida, explained there is more research today than ever before validating the positive effects of collagen and other natural compounds for beautifying skin.

“Both Biocell collagen, with naturally occurring bioavailable hyaluronic acid, and Verisol collagen, has published human clinical trials,” he said of his company’s products. “The participants in the Verisol Bioactive Collagen Peptides trial reported a reduction in eye wrinkle volume of up to 20 percent. Biocell and Verisol provide nutrients to help the body replenish its tissues including collagen.”

Popular Products and Ingredients

When asked what are the latest ingredients used for skin care products, and whether these have these recently changed, Hyalogic’s Landis shared that rosehip seed oil, plant stem cell ingredients, essential oils, hyaluronic acid and vitamin C are currently some of the most popular ingredients used in skincare.

One ingredient you can expect to see a lot of demand for in the upcoming year is different forms of omegas, according to Liu. He said these fatty acids are the real deal when it comes to the health of cells throughout the body, noting that the intake of fatty acids supports the ideal environment for collagen production. He added that ingredients with antioxidant or anti-inflammatory properties from natural sources are also very popular right now.

“Our latest product, Ultimate Hair, Skin and Nails, addresses all of these concerns in one easy to take vegan capsule,” Liu said. “People seem to understand that they can reap more benefits from skincare and supplements that are nutritionally complex, whereas before they were hooked on one ‘miracle’ ingredient at a time,” he continued. “We have been singing the praises of nutritionally complex sea buckthorn oils for over 20 years, we are glad that more and more people are beginning to see the light.”

Fisher of White Egret Personal Care explained that his company’s focus has been on how minerals including magnesium and trace minerals benefit the skin. He stated his company has aggressively promoted and educated consumers about the benefits of pure magnesium oil.

“Hyaluronic acid, which is not considered a new ingredient, still has so much growth potential,” he noted. “My company has found combining it with magnesium oil to be a powerful topical for skin hydration. Alpha lipoic acid is also a relatively new ingredient that is vitamin-like and has small enough molecules to work with the skin.”

According to Resverage’s Maru, collagen is the main ingredient consumers are seeking today, but not all collagen is created equal. He stated that the many advances in technology and science have resulted in more bioavailable forms as well as more clinical trial evidence on their performance.

“Advances have been made so that today, Verisol Bioactive Collagen Peptides, a high quality collagen, is odorless, tasteless, and mixes easily in room-temperature foods and liquids,” Maru said.

He also pointed out how popularity around ceramides continues to grow due to its ability to hydrate and moisturize the skin from within. “Our ceramosides form of ceramides is gluten-free and has been studied in humans. Participants in the ceramoside research reported that the hydration benefits began in just 15 days, thus providing beautifying support,” he added.

Emerging Ingredient Research

When considering what kind of ingredient research is of interest to manufacturers, Landis said they are primarily looking for safety data on ingredients first and then for efficacy. He explained, “A lot of manufactures are starting to look at cosmetic ingredients that already have the science and the safety to back up the use.”

“Antioxidant activity is of great interest to many manufacturers because of its relation to many different functions in health and beauty aide products, and you can find many new studies on this subject appearing every day,” noted Liu. “Antioxidant activity plays a role in everything from skin protection to collagen production, so it is indeed a very important factor to understand.”

He further noted how ingredients made from fruits, veggies and other plants tend to be loaded with antioxidant properties, “so it makes sense that natural skin health companies are interested in this kind of research.”

Horphag’s Bornet described how manufacturers want to know that skin health research on ingredients is thorough and valid. “As skin health is one of today’s biggest markets, manufacturers need to know and trust that the products they are selling live up to the claims they hold,” he said. “This is why Horphag Research has continued to invest in research on Pycnogenol for common skincare conditions. Currently, decades of research and real results has made this botanical extract sought after in oral and topical beauty products worldwide.” White Egret’s Fisher explained that manufacturers are interested in unbiased research that gives manufacturers and consumers’ confidence to create and use natural products that will help improve their overall sense of well-being and do what they say they will do. He said clinically proven ingredients are important and give legitimacy to the industry.

“The research needs to show efficacy period,” added Resverage’s Maru. “It also has to be validated in double-blind placebo controlled human studies showing significant results in a short period of time—60 days or less.”

Industry Trends Emphasize Safety

On the topic of the biggest industry trends, Landis sees the way consumers have begun scrutinizing the labels on cosmetics in order to avoid harmful ingredients as the most influential of trends. He said websites like www.safecosmetics.org have made it much easier for consumers to get an instant safety summary on the ingredients in each formula.

“But, the nice thing is that your local health food store has already pre- screened each product for safety and harmful ingredients before it gets put on the shelf,” he said. “And consumers appreciate this, which could be the reason why skincare sales are ever increasing in our natural products channel.”

Concerning trends, Seabuck Wonders’ Liu stated, “Our favorite mantra, ‘beauty from the inside out,’ is crucial to the rise of nutricosmetics in today’s natural skincare market. Consumers are looking for natural, ingestible beauty products to complement their traditional skincare regimen.”

According to Liu, convenience and ease of use are important qualities consumers seek in order to incorporate skincare products into their daily routines. He added that consumers now have a much more sophisticated understanding of the chemicals used in their personal care and are more discerning.

“Ingredients must be as natural as possible and the more certifications, the better,” Liu said. “Non-GMO (genetically modified organsim) Project verified, cruelty-free, organic and gluten-free certifications are becoming essential in the natural skincare world.”

Horphag’s Bornet explained when it comes to trends, millennials have learned from older generations that skin health starts from within and how important it is to take preventive steps to maintain healthy skin before reaching an advanced age.

“At Horphag Research, we’ve even seen an increase of women in their mid-20’s turning to skin health ingredients,” he explained. “Because of this, Pycnogenol, a standardized natural extract from French maritime pine bark, is widely used in topical and oral applications for various skincare indications. A unique combination of pharmacological functions of Pycnogenol provides an unmatched variety of benefits for skin health.

According to Bornet, Pycnogenol has been shown to increase hydration, improve elasticity and selectively bind to collagen and elastin to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. In addition, Pycnogenol reportedly stimulates hyaluronic acid and collagen production in human skin.

“A newly published review in Skin Pharmacology on Pycnogenol examines existing research and introduces new data to reveal exactly how the super antioxidant is effective for beauty and skincare,” Bornet said.

White Egret’s Fisher said he sees a trend toward natural products and that people who want to use natural products for skincare are avoiding surgeries and botox. “They are drawn to new ingredients and products that are unique, paraben free and affordable,” he explained.

Maru’s opinion on trends included his observation that a combination of oral delivery systems in conjunction with topical products is currently popular.

“There is also demand for vegetarian and vegan-friendly products. As an alternative to collagen supplements derived from animal sources, Reservage’s new plant-based support collagen builder features vegan-friendly nutrients,” he explained. “Ingredients include a proprietary blend of amino acids, vitamin C from organic amla gooseberry extract, silica from bamboo, and antioxidants from white tea. And to support skin hydration, vegan phytoceramides are included.”

Retail Support

The experts agreed that product education for retailers and by extension their customers is a key factor. Landis said one way that Hyalogic supports retailers is by providing in-store demonstrations.

“Customers love to touch, feel and smell the products,” he said. “Offering sample pouches with a couple of days’ supply are a great way to allow the customers to do a trial run. Manufacturers are also offering high-end looking displays to feature the products. Basically, you don’t have to go to a high-end department store to find high-quality products; they can be found right in your local health food store. “

Seabuck Wonders’ Liu agreed. “We take an educational approach when it comes to training retailers and customers about our products,” he said. “We support our retailers with in store demos, ads, and staff trainings.”

“Manufacturers support retailer sales by creating products that are the highest quality and sell themselves because of their effectiveness,” said White Egret’s Fisher. “Having trust in a brand because of their efforts to produce products that are effective helps retailers to gain new customers and hold onto their current customers.”

Research-backed ingredients should be the focus for natural retailers, according to Maru of Resverage. “Retailers should focus on brands that offer science-backed beauty ingredients supported by human clinical research,” he said. “They should also support brands that provide traceability as it relates to ingredient origins. They should also focus on products that have unique technology or are available in various delivery forms such as liquids, powders and on-the-go chews.”

Retailer Perspective

And what trends and customer preferences do retailers see regarding these products and ingredients? According to Renee Thompson, health and beauty aid buyer at Green Acres Market in Missouri, consumers coming to her store are seeking natural ingredients that work.

“They want non-GMO, organic, clean products,” she said. “We are seeing all age groups and nationalities coming into the store saying they are switching over to our brands. They are willing to forgo their comfort zone and at considerable cost, toss out all the department and drug store brands they have used in the past. It’s a lifestyle change for them. They are educating themselves and are reading the ingredient labels.”

Thompson noted that the most popular ingredients her customers ask for are hyaluronic acid, alpha lipoic acid, retinol, and vitamin C serums.

Thompson added that most consumers seek vegan, gluten-free, non-GMO skincare and cosmetics that perform as well or better than brands they have traditionally used. She said her customers want shampoo SLS (sodium laurul sulfate)-free, deodorant aluminum-free, toothpaste fluoride-free, and they especially expect all their skincare to be paraben-free.

She said customers’ biggest concern is efficacy. “Everyone is tired of empty promises by advertisers,” Thompson explained. “Having scientific studies to back up claims reassures them. Many natural skin care companies go to great lengths to test and have products certified. Customers are increasingly asking about where certain ingredients are sourced. They want to make certain the palm isn’t from Indonesia, for example. They care about the environment and want their sunscreen to be reef safe.”

Thompson explained that Green Acres Market employees care deeply about customers’ needs. “We scrutinize every company brand and make sure we can stand behind every product on the shelf,” she said. “The beauty of being an independent retailer in the natural food market is we can make changes quickly, while staying abreast of the latest trends and partnering with companies who are committed to the high standards and integrity we expect of the natural market.

“At Green Acres Market, ownership, management and all the employees genuinely care about the health and welfare of those who shop with us,” she continued. “This commitment goes beyond our doors and community. We realize the choices we make affect the world collectively.” VR

For More Information:
Horphag, +41 (0)22 710 26 26
Hyalogic, (866) 318-8484
Reservage, (800) 553-1896
Seabuck Wonders Balanceuticals, (312) 567-9978
White Egret Personal Care, (800) 309-3277

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