Consumers of all age have an interest in protecting their skin and preventing age-related damage.
Whether skin is smooth and unlined or freckled with a few wrinkles, many people are concerned about their complexion and the general health of their skin.
Protecting your skin goes beyond its general outward appearance. Sure, aiming for a “healthy glow” is a good enough reason to take care of your epidermis, but many consumers believe that keeping skin safe from harmful chemicals and the potential detrimental effects of the sun is a priority.
With the number of high-quality natural skin care products currently on the market, including balms, serums and lotions as well as oral supplements, consumers are finding it easier to do a skin care regimen at home in between visits to their skin care practitioners.
Skin Care Concerns
Consumers want to save their skin … literally. As people age, skin loses its elasticity as well as its moisture, so anti-aging skin solutions are on consumers’ minds. Preventing sun damage to skin is another concern for consumers, which has health ramifications beyond just skin that looks good.
Emily Kanter, the CEO and co-owner of Cambridge Naturals, a Massachusetts-based retailer with two stores in the Cambridge and Boston areas, said that they stock several thousand SKUs of clean beauty products from several hundred vendors.
“Increasingly, we’re seeing a rise in sensitive/reactive skin care challenges: seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis, eczema, perioral dermatitis. It’s no surprise given our increasingly unhealthy planet and stressed out society, and these are issues that are very particular person to person,” said Kanter.
Reviva Labs, a manufacturer headquartered in New Jersey, categorizes its products under eight main skin care concern areas: anti-aging, brightening, defense, firming, hydrating, restoring, revitalizing and specialty. Indeed, many products on the market fall into one or more of these categories.
However, said Darren Landis, owner of Hyalogic, a manufacturer based in Missouri, it’s not just middle-aged or older people who are interested in products for skin: increasingly, the demographic has been shifting toward younger consumers who are realizing that preserving their skin and staving off age-related changes should start now.
Consumer Demand
Most companies said that they have seen the demand for skin care continuing to grow, as well as the demand for transparency in ingredients, and that social media plays a big role in influencing consumer mindset.
“Our customers are generally seeking clean, effective and affordable skin care. They want to purchase products with healthy ingredients that actually work. They want the same experience they’d have with a conventional product, but with the knowledge that it’s safe for their health,” said Kanter.
The savvy consumer does his or her research before making purchases, and much of that information is obtained online.
“Shoppers are smarter and much more knowledgeable regarding ingredients,” said Bill Levins, president of Reviva Labs. Part of this, he said, is the availability of apps, websites and beauty vloggers and influencers, which play a role in educating consumers. “Admittedly, not all of this ‘reporting’ is based on strong or good science, but the positives far outweigh the negatives. It’s simply making the customer more discerning and aware of how to best spend their money. And they’re looking and shopping for cleaner and more natural beauty products that are affordable,” he added.
Levins agreed that consumers are also demanding more transparency with ingredients, and his company is complying by sharing the percentage of each key ingredient in all of their formulations.
Willie Tsang, CEO of Way of Will, a manufacturer based in Ontario, Canada also noted that social media is playing a part in creating demand for products. “Based on principles of awareness and social consciousness, many consumers are trying to purchase products that are green, clean, natural, sustainable and eco-friendly,” he said. He added that sustainability is another important concern to skin care consumers, including eco-friendly packaging.
Also, the demographic for those consumers seeking natural skin care products has shifted.
Sofia Garcia, co-founder of Khiasi, a manufacturer based in New Jersey, said that it is not just older women, but younger women, even teens, who are seeking skin care solutions. “It’s no longer about getting rid of wrinkles, it’s now about prevention,” she said, adding that men are also beginning to focus on skin health.
Skin Care Ingredient Trends
Many tried-and-true skin care ingredients, such as vitamin E, have been around for decades, though some, such as hyaluronic acid, are experiencing a surge in popularity.
Landis said that collagen and hyaluronic acid, while not new, are two of the hottest skin care ingredients being utilized, as they are natural dermal fillers, providing both hydration and plumpness. “They go hand in hand, as they are both naturally occurring inside of our body,” said Landis.
CBD is another ingredient finding its way into the skin care market. “Everyday stressors and irritants can result in redness, swelling, itchy discomfort and/or dryness—and emerging science demonstrates that CBD balances inflammation,” said Shane Hart, senior vice president of marketing and communications with CV Sciences, a manufacturer based in California. “Cannabidiol (CBD) is definitely trending right now, and it is being incorporated more and more in skin care products across the industry,” he said, adding that other popular ingredients are hyaluronic acid and shea butter, along with argan and marula oils, which they’ve incorporated into the skin care line.
“While the research has just begun on the topical benefits it has on skin, the hemp plant, and hemp oil have long been known to be beneficial; we’re eagerly watching this ingredient and the space,” said Levins. He added that they’re also excited about niacinamide, and the company has been exploring ingredients not as popular in the US, such as Indian gooseberry, mushroom and algae. He said that his company introduced exfoliation to the U.S., and started using elastin in their skin care products.
“There is a constant shift in what ingredients are trending: the switch to aluminum-free deodorant is an example. 2019 has seen a rise in products with ingredients that work skin-deep, such as niacinamide, retinols, squalane and witch hazel. While these ingredients are not necessarily new by any means, it speaks of the many possibilities and innovative ways to utilize them as the industry grows,” said Tsang.
Probiotics, or more specifically bacterial and yeast lysates and filtrates, appear to be trending in skin health products. Additionally, with advances in green chemistry, novel chemicals replacements for quaternary surfactants or petro-derived materials appears to have grown,” said Jennifer Cookson, director of research and development with Mother Dirt, a Massachusetts-based manufacturer.
In addition to topical formulas, Landis said that consumers are starting to be interested in oral supplements that can help beautify their skin from within.
Natural Skin Care Products on the Market
Reviva Labs has been creating natural skin care products since the 1970s, with a current line of about 50 products. Bestsellers include their Vitamin E-Stick, a lip balm to soothe and nourish the lips, and Hyaluronic Acid Serum. Even though they are categorized by skin care concern, Levins said that all of the company’s products can be used together. He added that the company is in the process of completely reformulating its product lines and will debut in the second quarter of 2020.
Hyalogic’s bestseller is Pure HA Face Serum, which was the first product that the company rolled out almost 20 years ago. “It’s the one everybody loves; it’s very clean, with only three ingredients. It’s naturally occurring in the skin, and we’re feeding the skin with what it needs most—hydration,” said Landis. He said that the inventions of serums have allowed companies to add more active and highly concentrated ingredients into the formulas. “It’s like having your own treatment regimen at home,” he said.
None of Mother Dirt’s skin care products use preservatives and all are made with plant-based ingredients. They manufacture facial foaming cleaners, body wash, shave butter, a moisturizer, body oil, and shampoo, but its AO+Mist is its bestseller. “This product contains our patented and live probiotic strain: Nitrosomonas eutropha. This ammonia oxidizing bacteria is a commensal key stone species that was once present on our skin. We lost this bacteria from our skin due to modern hygiene practices and our reduced interaction with the environment, where this bacteria naturally resides. As the name implies, this bacteria converts ammonia (present in sweat) into beneficial components, specifically nitrates, nitrites, and nitric oxide,” explained Cookson.
Way of Will incorporates essential oils into its natural products. The company’s bestselling products are its natural deodorant sticks, created with nontoxic and plant-based ingredients. Way of Will recently launched 00 Baking Soda Free Natural Deodorant which contains “… skin-loving ingredients like shea butter and coconut oil,” said Tsang.
Vitamin E is the main ingredient in skin care products manufactured by Carlson Labs, a manufacturer based in Illinois. Some of the company’s products include E-Gem Lips Care for chapped or cracked lips; E-Gem Oil Drops, which can be massaged into the skin or added to a bath; and E-Gem Skin Care Soap, which adds aloe, coconut oil and palm oil to the vitamin E.
Also focused on vitamin E, Khiasi manufactures an ingestible skin care product called Khiasi Beauty Superfood, which, Garcia said, is an all-in-one supplement. “We have reformulated Khiasi Beauty Superfood, increasing the vitamin E from 50 percent to 100 percent of the daily recommended intake,” she said.
The main ingredient in Sun Chlorella Skin Cream is, as the title suggests, chlorella, which is an alga. It is “… the first moisturizer in the world to contain one of chlorella’s most valuable component, chlorella growth factor (CGF). With a unique ability to multiply itself at an astounding rate, CGF, a nucleotide-peptide complex of RNA and DNA, supports cellular repair and renewal,” said Jennifer Jiminez, vice president and COO of the manufacturer, headquartered in Japan but with branches in the U.S. Another bestselling product is Astrarella Primetime Skin Cream, containing both CGF and the carotenoid, astaxanthin.
CV Sciences launched Original Raw Hemp CBD Balm in 2014. The success of that product, along with the Extra Strength CBD Balm in 2016, led the company to launch a full lineup of seven skin care products at the end of last year; the company’s assortment of products includes balms, body lotions, body cream, skin serum and a roll on. Hart said that one of the company’s bestsellers is +Plus CBD Oil Extra Strength Hemp Balm.
State of the Market
As consumers become more aware and educated through various means, the market for natural skin products is doing well, and most agree that the buying trend is not slowing down any time soon. And, said Garcia, natural skin care products are becoming more mainstream, not limited to specialty shops.
“More natural ingredients are the driving force in our category. Not just key ingredients, but also thickening agents, pH stabilizers, etc. In the past, it was ok to ‘call yourself natural’ and to use a synthetic ‘thickening or viscosity agent’ but today’s consumers want better. So, there’s a lot of innovation in this ‘building block ingredients’ space that we’re closely monitoring and evaluating,” said Levins.
One major impact on the market is the increased scientific testing; there are more scientifically researched ingredients going into skin care products, which has made consumers happy, said Landis.
Hart added that the surge in CBD has impacted the market as well, though he cautioned that not all CBD products are created equally, and that retailers and consumers should educate themselves while only selecting products whose “transparency practices demonstrate the safety and quality of their products.” Still, with such a wide variety of skin care products on the market, retailers may be faced with the challenge of trying to appeal to multiple demographics. “We have a wide range of customers with different budgets and also different ideas of how much they want to invest in their skin care. We try to offer the ‘best of’ for virtually every budget including lots of bulk and DIY skin care options,” said Kanter.
Manufacturer Support
Many companies, such as Reviva, support retail sales by providing demos and consumer education. “We’re working with our larger retail partners and our independents to create more creative sales and couponing events at the store level,” said Levins, adding that they started a webinar training series in 2019.
Cookson said that Mother Dirt supports companies via literature and educational information that can be found on the company website.
“Geotargeted ads and email blasts always works. We always love to offer education to sale associates so that they can better educate our customers about our products and brand,” said Tsang.
Because it is a relatively new ingredient and there is much misinformation about CBD, CV Sciences endeavors to support its retail partners with educational materials, including an online training program, webinars and in-store demos. “We also offer a quarterly cannabis science, regulation, and market news round-up that provides interested retailers news clips from the constantly evolving cannabis market,” said Hart.
Merchandising Tips
Levins said he believes that those who build a community around their stores will be the retailers that thrive. “It’s one of the reasons we’ve invested in demos—it’s an event that gets people excited,” he said.
Landis, agreed, emphasizing that it is critical that health stores offer testers for these products. “Consumers want to smell it, feel it, and try it before they buy it. You can’t get that online, but you sure can do that inside of a store,” he said.
Kanter said that demos are one of the reasons her store draws customers. “We offer free testers of nearly every product so they can try things and figure out what will really help their skin before investing in a whole routine.”
But consumers need to know that they can trust what you’re saying. Kanter said that her staff is well trained and can pass that knowledge down to consumers regarding all the products they carry. “We also do a fair amount of education on social media, and on our blog,” she said. And displaying merchandise in a pleasing way is essential, including, added Hart, keeping prices visible and product labels facing outward.
Kanter said that they strive to keep their skin care section beautiful, well organized and clean. “We do a combination of brand blocking and structure function so that it’s easy to find the products you’re looking for, and it also allows for a sense of discovery in the customer experience.” VR
For More Information:
Carlson Labs, https://carlsonlabs.com
CV Sciences, https://cvsciences.com
Hyalogic, www.hyalogic.com
Khiasi, www.khiasi.com
Mother Dirt, https://motherdirt.com
Reviva Labs, www.revivalabs.com
Sun Chlorella, www.sunchlorellausa.com
Way of Will, https://www.wayofwill.com
